Friday, September 21, 2007

Really, really Great Wall

Today marked my first contact with the Great Wall. I am unexpectedly
at a loss for words to describe it, except to say that it ranks as one
of my best travel experiences, anywhere, ever.

I opted to join Daniel, a super friendly guy from Mexico City I've
been traveling with since the train ride from Xi'an, on a grueling
10km scramble up and down some of the Wall's steepest sections at
quite a distance (Simatai, 3 1/2 hours with a FAST mini-bus driver)
from Beijing. Most of this section of the Wall is unrestored, and so
there are many places where brick-robbers, the elements and plants are
trying to reclaim the Wall for themselves: towers with trees growing
in them, wild flowers springing up in the middle of the path, and many
sections where the ledges and brick pavers have long since
disappeared, leaving only large slippery stones and sand.

When they said part of this trek was steep, they weren't kidding: lots
of spots require your hands and feet to negotiate what the Lonely
Planet said are at times 70% inclines. And for all that we covered,
the mind boggles to see the structure continue humpbacking one
mountain after another, as far as the eye can see.

It was a physically challenging, exhilarating and completely
unforgettable 4 1/2 hour trek. We had cloudless blue skies, temps in
the high seventies and, after leaving our entry point where this photo
was taken, very few fellow travelers on this incredible edifice. All I
can say is WOW!

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