Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Annika goes to Washington, part 2

And now, for the conclusion...

I made it out of Montréal with cleaned carbs, new O-rings and new filters thanks to Stéphane and his team at LaShop Motosport, Annika roaring better than ever. Scarcely more than an hour later, I was faced off with a surly American immigration officer, who after a series of questions posed as though he would catch me in a lie, he deigned to let me back into my home country, while not seeming particularly pleased about it.

Thankfully, Vermont's welcome was more fitting, with a quick visit in its quaint and cozy capitol city of Montpelier. I crossed into New Hampshire on winding Route 302 through the White Mountains, and saw a marked increase in the number of bikes on the road.

Only later did I realize this was because of my arrival coinciding with the Laconia Motorcycle Week. (From what I saw, New Hampshire's twisty roads would be a lovely staging ground for a motorcycle fest. The moose towering on the shoulder of the highway, not so much.)

Continuing my path east, I crossed into Maine, and set up camp in an otherwise empty campground just over the border.

The next morning, I continued east, finally intoducing Annika to the Atlantic and both of us to the lovely harbor of Portland, Maine.

My destination for the evening was Nick and Noelle's warm and inviting home, with their three fabulous kids in Newton, Massachusetts.

Luckily, my arrival again was propitiously timed to let Nick and I catch Wendy, our friend and partner in our one-percenter researcher club, during a singing recital. She's got a great voice, and the bourbon afterwards wasn't too bad, either.

After lunch the next day with Nick, Noelle and Wendy, I set off for New York, arriving at Josh and Jessica's just before sundown.

Josh and Jessica are among my oldest friends in the world, and our time together always passes too quickly. That's only more true since they've added adorable Charlie and (just five weeks ago!) precious Lila to their family. Here's Charlie with his trains.

We spent most of our visit together taking walks, playing in playgrounds, visiting the fabulous Hall of Science in Flushing, and lingering in the kitchen and dining room. Too quickly, I had to set off for my date with Washington, DC.

After impossibly scenic vistas of Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty from the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway, en route to Staten Island, I continued south, finally arriving at my cousin Bill's place in Kensington, Maryland after a long and sticky afternoon of riding.

This visit was also my first chance to meet Bill and Michelle's youngest, Daniel, ever a reliable source of renewable energy. We celebrated Father's Day with a trip to a toddler-friendly diner and a screening of Toy Story 3. (Pixar, I ♥ you.)

Later that evening, I took Annika across the Virginia border for an engrossing visit with Jamey, his lovely new wife Kate and witty and fabulous kiddos Alessandra and Lucia. The time passed so quickly, I didn't even snap a photo!

Finally, the day arrived: the moment to deliver Annika to Jennifer, and say goodbye to my riding companion for this journey. After a handwash to remove (at least the first layer of) accumulated road gunk, Annika was home.

Lucky me, I was able to catch dinner with her very busy owner, on the eve before the release of the first-ever inter-agency federal plan to end homelessness, her labor of love (and product of blood, sweat and tears) since arriving in Washington. It's a great plan. Mostly because it's hard to imagine how as a nation we would apply the considerable amount we know already about how to end homelessness successfully and cost-effectively if we didn't have a plan.

Thus concludes my 2,500 mile, 16-state/province/District-of-Columbia-spanning soujourn east! And now, I am off to experience Costa Rica, thunderheads over Cuba accompanying my flight south.

More to come!


Monday, June 14, 2010

Annika goes to Washington, part 1

Greetings from Montréal, where I am at the halfway mark on my sojourn east to DC, following a meandering path north, east and south with a few zigzags west for good measure.

I am lucky to have had good company on this ride, including my brother Jesse astride his Sportster who rode out to Hammond, Wisconsin with me to start the trip.


Kelby surprised me by turning up in Green Bay, giving us a chance to check out Lambeau Field together, and enjoy a very wet ride through scenic Door County in eastern Wisconsin.


We are among the small subset of riders who would label that day's ride as a fun one. (I'll confess that I started second-guessing my judgement on that point during the last hour of torrential rain, blustery winds and plummeting temps.)


Our route took us to the tip of the Door County peninsula, then southward again for my date with a ferry across Lake Michigan.


On the way to the ferry, Annika's horsepower seemed dramatically reduced. Hoping that it was just water somewhere it shouldn't be, or perhaps just a bad tank of gas, we pressed on, topping poor Annika out at 60 mph on the freeway. The problems continued, but the ferry waits for no man, so I decided to continue onward, while assessing the problem and potential solutions.

Annika lashed to the car deck, I stretched out on the sundeck as the ferry pulled away from Milwaukee, the weather cooperating that day with great visibility, brilliant sunshine and calm waters.



A few hours later, we pulled into harbor at Muskegon, Michigan, where I headed to a bike mechanic. The front cylinder's plug showed signs that it wasn't firing properly, suggesting carburator issues.

With a new sparkplug, fresh gas and a jetted air filter doing nothing to aleviate the problems, Annika and I continued our wheezing way eastward, stopping for the night in a campground in Chesaning, Michigan.



Having found that the carb issues didn't compromise my enjoyment of two-lane highways very much, and being eager to spend time in Montréal, if I had to be pinned down anywhere, I made a date with a mechanic who inspired confidence in his ability to resolve the problem quickly, and crossed into Canada.

(If only I could have snapped a photo from the apex of the Port Huron bridge! Stunning views of Lake Huron on this Great Lakes tour.)

A few hours later, I was bibbling along the coast of Lake Ontario, rolling into a hostel, my lodging for the night, in downtown Toronto.



The next morning, I packed up and set out, grateful for having had other opportunities to explore Toronto more adequately.

My first order of business on reaching Montréal was to deliver Annika into the capable hands of Stéphane, who will tend to her carbs. Then, get to know the city!


Littered with churches, sidewalk cafés and green spaces, it has been difficult to decide where to linger longest!


On strolls throughout its eminently walkable core, I've caught snippets of sidewalk conversations in countless tongues (yesterday including my first contact, as far as I'm aware, with Macedonian), not just the abundant French. If there's a better sign of a city's cosmopolitan nature, I'm not sure what it would be.


The exuberant street festivals this weekend, the relaxed saunter of pedestrian traffic and the chic, showy attitude of many residents and visitors shout that this is city to be enjoyed. A city of bon vivants, indeed.



Tomorrow, Annika willing, I head back to my home soil, south and then along the eastern seaboard toward Annika's ultimate destination and my flight to Latin America.

More to come from the road!

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Off again

Surgery... check!
Recovery... check!
Great times with friends and fam... check!
A borrowed motorcycle and leisurely route east... check!

And so I'm off to Latin America for a month, by way of a three-week
trip to DC by motorcycle, by way of Montreal, Boston and New York. The
adventures continue, and hopefully these blog posts will catch up with
them! Until then, happy trails.